20 Highlights From New York Fashion Week
New York Fashion Week hosted over 75 runway shows over one glamorous week, exhausting everyone. Independent and established brands showed sustainable fashion, couture, novelty bags, metallic fabrics, futuristic style and sparkles that dazzled and inspired closets everywhere.
Before the fashion crowd heads over to London, then Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, here are highlights from New York Fashion Week, from the coolest parties you missed, to the runway shows that left the crowd shook.
The Blonds (David and Phillipe Blond) always steal the show when they close New York Fashion Week, and this time around was no exception. This new collection was inspired by old Hollywood glamor, as well as the life of Elizabeth Taylor and her obsession with jewelry. “That was the starting point—her style and beauty,” said David Blond. “She had this incredible style in the 1960, her beauty was turned up as high as you could possibly go. Larger than life.”
The oversized gemstones and crystals in the runway show call to mind Polly Pocket dresses, the gemstone emoji and even “Princess Peach Toadstool in Super Mario Bros.,” said Blond. “The new collection references Breakfast at Tiffany’s and My Fair Lady, as well.”
Pose actress and model Dominique Jackson closed the show wearing a giant diamond as a dress, and in attendance was Sex and the City writer Candace Bushnell, model Maye Musk, writer Michael Musto and more.
Founded by Chinese-American designer Wei Lin, this New York-based brand draws its inspiration from the ocean for its latest collection. This is not a jellyfish offers coral-hued and ocean-like knit items shaped in the waves of the oceans, as amoeba, or as underwater critters. Lin hopes to draw attention to the problem of plastic pollution in the ocean. “Plastic was an important message within our collection,” said Lin. “We asked our friends and family to collect plastic from their lives for us to use in styling the collection.”
Ella Emhoff, the stepdaughter of Vice President Kamala Harris, is not only a model signed with IMG, but also a fashion designer. She held an event at Spring Studios showcasing her latest line of knitwear, which was showcased under the title, Ella Emhoff Likes to Knit. It’s a knitwear collection with a youthful edge. It’s essentially for those who have Peter Pan syndrome. As Emhoff explains: “I’ve been channeling a lot of my childhood style fantasies into my personal style,” said Emhoff. “It’s not weird to have a love of things that make you feel comforted and nostalgic.”
Abraham David Lev
New York nightlife icon Susanne Bartsch showcased LOOK III at Runway 7 during New York Fashion Week, a fashion presentation featuring her own designs alongside seven other independent designers. The show stealer was the couture by Abraham David Levy. His upscale, futuristic designs brought a focused, elevated touch to the runway. Levy’s looks have been featured on TV shows like Pose, and here, he had models like Miss Gay Texas USA Kylee O’Hara Fatale and Anetra, from Ru Paul’s Drag Race season 15, walk the runway.
Luis De Javier
The Spanish designer made his New York Fashion Week debut at the Angel Orensanz Foundation in the Lower East Side with fashion icon Julia Fox closing the show. Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon also walked the show, as well as Alton Mason and Georgia Palmer and much of the show featured latex, leather, jeans and spikes throughout the collection (their distressed gray leather was printed onto vegan leather, in collaboration with Kornit).
This stylish brand featured their Fall/Winter 2023 collection at the Bowery Hotel with fun, floral prints, sequin dresses and upscale denim items for this new collection. The fashion director, Tara Rudes Dnan, said that the inspiration comes from women rock icons like Joan Jett. “It’s about women wanting to show up and look their best—always,” she said. Attendees included Alix Earle, Brooks Nader, and Shanina Shaik.
The designer, known for creating couture gowns for celebrities like Emma Thompson, Janelle Monae and Priyanka Chopra, unveiled his Fantôme collection at the Leman Ballroom. The focus was on the high-end fabrics, from intricate embroidered floral patterns to lavish gowns. The classic looks were inspired by Nosferatu (Dracula), the 1922 silent film, and Clair de lune, a song by French composer Claude Debussy. Above all, it’s inspired by European craftsmanship.
MCM’s Champagne & Chocolate Pairing Workshop
The MCM (Michael Cromer Munich) brand held an event in their SoHo location featuring chocolate confections by Norman Love alongside music by DJ Rei. The fashion crowd mingled around the store, which featured their latest collection of blue-hued bags. In attendance was Asia Monet, Emma Brooks and Ming Lee Simmons.
In fact, their SS23 collection was recently unveiled with Canadian singer Tate McRae, with bags that have a vintage jean-like look. A few highlights include the München Tote and the Dessau Drawstring.
33:3 by Linda Liz
Linda Liz brought a splash of color to the 33:3 by Linda Liz show, an athleisure and swimwear brand “for the woman who has a warrior spirit,” said Liz. The brand made its debut as part of the Flying Solo show at Canoe Studios, and brought a futuristic twist to urban-influenced items. The designer says the brand is meant to “celebrate your individuality as you seek perfect harmony within your mind, body, and soul,” she said.
It’s also fashion with a purpose, as the brand was founded to honor Liz’s sister Coco, who is an oncology and ostomy patient—and 33:3 allows women to include their ostomy bags within their own fashion style.
Bruce and Glen Proctor, the pink-haired twin brothers behind the BruceGlen brand, featured their latest, colorful line ”The Sermon” at New York Fashion Week, with RunwayX By Afterpay at Spring Studios. The collection featured monochromatic jean items, silky blouses, retro dresses and gradients galore—from blue to pink, yellow to green. Harlem star Shoniqua Shandai walked the runway, while gospel singer Naomi Raine opened the show singing a song as a tribute to the design duo’s late mother.
The west coast fashion brand opened their first New York store at 60 Wooster Street in SoHo. The brand offers earthy-hued maxi dresses that would fit the likes of Coachella or Burning Man, but their upscale sequin dresses, floral gowns and sparkly clutches could fit the Met Gala, as well. A common theme here is cosmic core accents for the mystical spirit. And Cult Gaia is always fun. Emily Ratajkowski was in attendance.
The futuristic sportswear line from Philipp Plein descended upon SoHo for a Plein Sport pop-up that brought a heavy dose of hype to New York Fashion Week (and will be up for three months). Snag your favorite, blinged-out sneakers, check out the athletic wear; from cute crop tops to high-waisted leggings and tracksuits emblazoned with the trademark tiger logo, all the latest items are here.
Imagine twee knitwear meets fun fur coats and you start to get the feel of Colin LoCascio’s vision. The New York designer is known for working under Marc Jacobs, and for his faux-fur coats worn by Cardi B. This new collection is fun, flirty and a bit otherworldly, or even underwater, at times. Take the spaghetti strap sequin pink dress covered in flowers, which is a fun romp through the summer of love, or his orange knit pieces wrapped in green accents, which feels like a conceptual approach to seaweed. It was presented with RunwayX by Afterpay at Spring Studios.
This knitwear brand, BULAN, brought chunky, colorful and abstract shapes to the runway at Daylight Studio as part of New York Men’ Day. This genderless collection from designer Ratchapol Ngaongam showcased angular one pieces, oversized sweaters with built in scarves, and matching ensembles. Some items are reminiscent of Piet Mondrian paintings, while others call to mind Jonathan Lasker. Ngaongam casted all Asian models for the runway.
ADEAM unveiled their “Ichi” gender-neutral collection on the runway for the first time ever, which is inspired by Tokyo street style. It’s also made in Japan with Japanese fabrics. The brand’s creative director Hanako Maeda said the new collections on vie are inspired by the punk and grunge music she grew up with in the 1990s. The collection showcases items made from faux leather, lace, tulle and velvet. “So what does teenage angst look like in 2023?” she writes in a statement.
“We’ve moved away from the more romantic and fantastical elements of our recent collections to create something more stripped-down and less embellished—the punk style is casual and carefree but also deliberate in its deconstruction.” In attendance was Natasha Lyonne, Cristina Ehrlich and Lana Condor.
The brand showcased industrial-inspired pieces for their “We Are All Animals” collection. A lilac pastel purple and orange were the key colors for the collection, as well as gray and black. The designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li also brought elements of genderless wear to their latest collection. The show opened with a performance of a Japanese folk tale called “The Fox’s Wedding,” which brought a slice of performance art to the runway. This show was presented with RunwayX by Afterpay.
Every season at New York Fashion Week, Concept Korea brings us the top talents from South Korea. The three fashion brands on view were on view; BESFXXK, Cahiers and Ulkin. BESFXXK opened the show with longboard performance artist Hyojoo Ko, and showcased tailored pieces inspired by traditional trench coats with street classics. Cahiers showed a collection inspired by Korean school uniforms, while Ulkin’s latest collection is made from upcycled workwear from industrial sites.
With Vanessa Williams and her three daughters seated in the front row, Pamella Roland’s latest show brought sophisticated evening wear to the runway. Highlights include long dresses with blazer-like elements, cobalt blue dresses which are perfect for the summer and gold-encrusted accents.
Inspired by Shirley Bassey’s song “Diamonds Are Forever,” Kevan Hall’s fall collection was a tribute to 1950’s glamor. We might know the designer for working under Halston from 1997 to 2000, dressing Lauren Bacall, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy. The looks had gold touches, metallic accents and velvety fabrics.
One viral TikTok fashion item made a cameo, too. Diplo wore cartoonish footwear by MSCHF (the brand calls them Big Red Boots), which he wore to a Madison Square Garden basketball game. He was in town to attend runway shows (above at the Gabriela Hearst show), then did a DJ set at ArtsDistrict Brooklyn, which was hosted by Teksupport.