How daring designer Rudi Gernreich left a mark on fashion with his topless bikini
Gernreich, an award-winning fashion designer who would have celebrated his 100th birthday this 12 months, always knew how to courtroom controversy. In 1964 his breast-baring topless bathing suit for gals was publicized, praised and damned the environment about. Even the pope acquired included, condemning the swimwear. So did seashore-space police forces from Santa Monica to St. Tropez, who swooped in to arrest any female sporting a Gernreich “monokini” on the sand or in the surf. (In my possess California hometown, I don’t forget community Tv set news programs pledging that the suit would be modeled on digicam by an true woman, then trotting out a compact youngster or a chimpanzee.)
Gernreich’s afterwards experiments with unisex clothes, allowing for wearers whole independence of movement and decision, also created headlines. Equally controversial was his 1974 introduction of thong swimsuits and underwear that uncovered equally male and female buttocks.
At the very same time, Gernreich was planning daring but extremely wearable fashion (distinguished by sturdy hues, distinguished zippers, thigh-significant hemlines and room-age materials) adored by the young and the hip. Trend leaders in his possess era praised him as a futurist. Beth Dincuff Charleston, manner historian at Parsons School of Structure, advised me: “His legacy lies in his comprehending that genderless outfits was the route that trend would inevitably consider, and that human body acceptance and its interwoven marriage with manner would be a vital concern that the manner globe would have to have to handle.”
Rudolf Gernreich was born in Vienna on Aug. 8, 1922, into a near-knit Jewish family with potent ties to the clothes business. His father died youthful in 1938, when Rudi was 16, he and his mom immigrated to California six months immediately after the Nazi Anschluss. He researched art at Los Angeles City College, then entered the entire world of modern day dance, doing demanding roles with Lester Horton’s Dance Theater though also beginning to examine costume design and style. Gernreich’s style job had its roots in the eye-catching, flexible costumes he designed for such potential dance stars as Kennedy Centre honoree Carmen de Lavallade. Later he collaborated with Horton alumna Bella Lewitzky to create dances around his outrageously stretchy leotards that were being occasionally shared onstage by additional than a person performer. Throughout his life, Gernreich’s work was invariably prized for staying snug as perfectly as audacious, and collectors nevertheless treasure his easy-to-use separates.
But even with his status for bravado inside the vogue business, Gernreich was significantly from brave about revealing his sexual orientation to his fellow designers. In 1950 he had joined his then-partner Harry Hay in founding the Mattachine Modern society, a clandestine L.A. corporation dedicated to advertising and marketing the lawful legal rights of gay gentlemen, almost 20 several years before the Stonewall uprising. Nevertheless when Gernreich made a decision to go to New York to try his luck in the nation’s vogue money, he advised Hay they would have to retain individual residences. As he confided to a near good friend, journalist Stuart Timmons, Seventh Avenue didn’t want to accept deviations from the social norm. In a 1985 article printed just after Gernreich’s demise, Timmons recalled the designer expressing, “There is a flexibility for homosexuals in the style field, and there are a good deal of them there, but it is taboo to discuss it.”
When attending swanky New York awards occasions, Gernreich would arrive with woman companions, this sort of as the 17-calendar year-aged Brooke Shields. Years afterwards, when he died of lung most cancers at age 62, his New York Periods obituary mentioned that he lived alone in the Hollywood Hills and had no survivors. This irrespective of the actuality that he had savored a 31-12 months intimate romantic relationship with Oreste Pucciani, a UCLA professor who was a observed professional in French existentialism. Although the few had a big and lively Southern California social circle, Gernreich never ever succumbed to his partner’s urging to “out” himself in any community forum. Pucciani, publish-retirement, had supplied a frank interview to Ten Per cent, a UCLA gay college student paper. Gernreich contemplated doing the exact same but could never ever provide himself to shine a highlight on his particular existence. As Timmons set it in a 1990 short article in the Advocate: “This rule breaker of trend summed up his factors for not coming out with a simple phrase: ‘It’s poor for organization.’ ”
But immediately after his dying in 1985 his allegiance grew to become clear. A line in his Los Angeles Instances obituary, reflecting his and Pucciani’s joint wishes, suggested that donations in his name be despatched to the ACLU Homosexual and Lesbian Chapter. This developed, under Pucciani’s stewardship, into the establishment of the Rudi Gernreich-Oreste Pucciani Charitable Have confidence in in aid of the ACLU Foundation’s Lesbian and Homosexual Rights Task. So the perception in personalized autonomy that underpinned Gernreich’s everyday living last but not least led, immediately after his demise, to a community political stand. It was bolstered at the commence of 1993, when Pucciani’s gift of Gernreich’s archives to UCLA Library’s Specific Collections was timed to coincide with a Homosexual and Lesbian Research exhibit, “With Equal Pride.” Back in 1977, Gernreich had reluctantly specified to an Arizona Star reporter what he felt to be his finest achievement: “I’ve been able to lead to freedom — not just of the system, but of the spirit.” It took, even though, the rest of his daily life to come across the bravery to publicly declare where he stood as a guy.
Longtime Gernreich model Léon Bing, who’d when posed with Gernreich and fellow model Peggy Moffitt on the protect of Time, informed me that on Aug. 8, 1972 — the day he turned 50 — Gernreich was uncharacteristically grumpy. Usually he was a jovial male, with an impish sense of humor, but on that crimson-letter working day he was evidently bummed. When requested why, he mournfully explained to Bing: “I can hardly ever yet again be an enfant horrible.”
Correct, he was obtaining more mature, and it would not be lengthy ahead of he appeared not really so groundbreaking as he when had been. In 2022, while, his sleek knits, riotous prints and system-embracing jumpsuits are demonstrating up in museum displays and on the internet. (For the previous ten years, a German entrepreneur named Matthias Kind has been marketing a revival of some of Gernreich’s extra provocative creations by way of his www.rudigernreich.com web page.) And the present-day availability of genuinely see-by means of bikini tops and bottoms from firms like Beach front Revolution Swimwear — whose slogan is “Wear BR Swimwear or practically nothing at all” — indicates that today’s fashionistas are catching up with Gernreich’s radical concepts.
One particular working day an individual could possibly even popularize his last development. Photographed by Helmut Newton a single month in advance of Gernreich’s dying, it was a tiny scrap of black fabric framing the model’s pubic hair, shaped and dyed a poison eco-friendly. A glimpse of the potential? Maybe so.
In Women’s Use Every day, design and style writer Booth Moore recently observed Gernreich’s impact on present all set-to-have on traits, hailing him as “L.A.’s good vogue liberator.” Gernreich may well no more time be an enfant awful, but by means of both his styles and his own case in point he has demonstrated the way towards the liberation of overall body and soul.
Beverly Gray is a biographer and movie historian in Southern California.