Luxury brands make waves in jewellery world with bespoke diamond cuts

In just the plush splendour of Dior’s new boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, with its haute couture salon and pâtisserie, is a not so hidden gem. Nestled in a display screen cabinet sits a fancy yellow cushion-formed diamond named “Le Montaigne”. It has been slice to weigh exactly 88.88 carats to reference the founding of Dior on October 8, 1946 in the 8th arrondissement in Paris, and the “8-shaped” line — in French, “En Huit” — which jointly with the “Corolle” founded the house’s vaunted New Look design and style.

Le Montaigne is destined to be a 1-of-a-form stone, which the house’s inventive director of jewelry, Victoire de Castellane, will established in a specially intended jewel. The use of a specific, or even a proprietary, reduce is a follow collecting momentum amongst luxurious homes searching for to fortify their individuality and presence in the jewellery world, and to cater to clients’ motivation for a thing specific.

In 2001 Bucherer, in partnership with Dutch diamond cutters Royal Asscher, pioneered the craze with the introduction of its possess Royal Asscher Cut, which enhances the light-weight reflection of the typical square-formed minimize by including 16 new aspects. In 2019, to rejoice its 100th anniversary, Italian property Buccellati debuted the Buccellati Minimize, a square-cut diamond with 57 facets dented with rounded edges to mimic the dwelling logo. “My purpose was to have a stone that could correctly mix with our model in jewellery,” suggests artistic director Andrea Buccellati.

A pair of earrings made from gold strands in the shape of broches with diamond edging
Buccellati Vega pendant earrings with Buccellati cut diamonds

Past year, Chanel introduced a 55.55-carat diamond cut in the octagonal shape of the Chanel No 5 perfume bottle stopper, and Chaumet debuted the glowing, 88-aspect Taille Impératrice lower motivated by “the hexagonal form [of] the heart of [our bestselling] Bee My Enjoy collection design”, points out Chaumet main executive Jean-Marc Mansvelt. The quantity eight refers to the actions bees use to talk amid themselves — and in Chinese society is deemed lucky. Louis Vuitton, also, has its own diamond cuts: a rounded-cut flower and a pointed-lower flower modelled after its monogram.

Fresh out of a mine, a diamond resembles a soiled piece of glass, and is slash to sparkle. In their simplest type, diamonds are reduce as octahedrons, or two pyramids with their bases connected.

Two joined hexagonal diamonds on a chain and a hexagonal diamond ring
Chaumet Bee My Adore solitaire and pendant in white gold with Taille Impératrice-formed diamonds

Slicing the top off of the pyramids resulted in the to start with “table cut”, which appeared all around the 15th century, with 9 faces and enhanced fire (potential of gems to break up gentle into colors of the spectrum). Additional sides led to more sparkle — and demand.

“From 1919 on, the round brilliant lower has largely been the dominant diamond chopping type, some thing that is strengthened when thinking about how diamonds are priced — one particular listing for round diamonds, a different for each individual other shape,” suggests Quig Bruning, head of the jewellery department at Sotheby’s Americas. He refers to the extremely well-known spherical-shaped slice with 58 facets developed by Polish-Belgian mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky, who was born into a relatives of gem-cutters.

“Eighty-5 for each cent of all diamonds bought around the entire world are white spherical outstanding cut diamonds. The remaining 15 per cent are the regular extravagant cuts this sort of as baguette, princess, oval, emerald, and so on,” claims Vishal P Mehta, co-chief executive at Dimexon, a diamond cutter centered in India.

Necklace formed of three strands of small connected diamonds with a larger diamond pendant
Chanel Higher Jewelry ’55.55’ necklace in 18K white gold and diamonds

According to Mehta, customized cuts such as those people these days patented by luxury properties “generate communicate-means instead than bolstering sales”. But he stresses the worth of chopping when it arrives to the over-all benefit: “The quality of the reduce is an important criterion. A improved high quality reduce with far better proportions, polish and symmetry could consequence in a smaller sized diamond but will likely be additional valued,” he describes.

Setting up a new diamond reduce usually takes time. “Customers are delicate to diamonds’ industrial worth on the secondary industry,” says Mansvelt, hinting at lessen rates fetched by strange cuts at auctions.

Rectangular shaped ring made from a number of diamonds
Louis Vuitton ring with LV-star slice diamond from ‘La Mini Malle’ Bravery II assortment

However the enthusiastic reception of the new Taille Impératrice by some of his house’s finest shoppers, as claimed by Chaumet’s Mansvelt, implies a increasing motivation for one of a kind cuts, which mirrors the climbing desire in significant, uncut stones and the additional popular urge for food for just one-of-a-type pieces inside of the luxury sphere.

Following all, the most famous diamonds are generally uniquely slash — think of the Koh-i-Noor owned by the British Crown or the Tiffany Diamond slash into a superb 128.54-carat stone worn by Audrey Hepburn, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé.

“Each aspect of a diamond has a big affect on its visual appearance,” suggests Bruning of Sotheby’s. “Creating a proprietary slice can be a compelling way of distinguishing your manufacturer in a very chaotic marketplace.”

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